1. Disconnect the cable at the transmission control valve (left side of engine bay), pull off the vacuum lines at the carburator and the tube under the carburator.
2. Disconnect the transision fluid line (oil pump to torque converter) and secure such that the oil will not leak.
3. Disconnect the oil return line and stopper with a soldered shut M16x1.5 thingy?(See Fig. 1)
4. Remove the twelve point M8 bolts of the torque converter through the opening in the converter housing. Turning the engine via the pulley will allow access to all of the bolts. (See Fig. 2)
   Webmaster's comment: Until now I have never seen twelve point bolts. All my 1302 and 1303 Bettles have had regular six point heads.
   Note: Remark: should the engine not turn, it can be removed with the converter. The rear engine tin must be removed though.
   Webmaster's comment: This is impossible, even after removing front and rear engine tin and the seals there is way to little space. One can, however, pull the engine towards the rear as far as possible and gain access to the M8 bolts on the converter that way.
   
5. Secure the converter in the bell housing (See Fig. 3). This tool is easily made.
   
   

Additional instructions to the chapter 'Engine Installation / Manual Transmission'

1. Remove tool holding torque converter.
   Caution: If the converter was removed with the engine, a new sealing ring must be used during installation.
2. Raise engine, align mounting studs to bell housing and lightly torque down the nuts (first the top ones, then the bottom ones). Be careful not to damage the heli-coil threads. Torque to 3 kpm only.
3. Reattach the four M8 to the torque converter (through the opening in it's housing). Torque to 3 kpm as well. Take care not to drop any bolts into housing.
4. Reattach the ATF lines at the oil return and oil pumps.
5. Connect vacuum lines at the carburator and the tube under the carburator.
6. Reattach the cable at the transmission control valve.